#Upr k member install install#
On today’s episode, join me while I install my UPR k-member. A word of caution - don't drill too far into the strut. 2000 Mustang, Roush Supercharged, Coyote Swap. I drilled the three welds and used a chisel. The dust shield support rings on the stock struts have to be removed in order for the coil overs to fit.
#Upr k member install plus#
UPR K plus tubular control arms and all hardware:27 lbs Only makes sense since the spindles are off. Im gonna add longer wheel studs at this time. The next step is to mount the UPR K and start installing the coil overs, tubular A arms and spindles. Its also a good idea at this time to unplug the abs sensors at the union just behind the plastic inner fenders. Take the two strut bolts and sway bar links off and she's good to go. rePlatt was a member of the Council of the Instituremove the accounting department of Westing - 1 Boilers. The spindles come off pretty easy once you remove the tie rod ends and lower ball joint nut. I started by taking the caliper off, followed by the caliper bracket. Lucky for Me, the Eibach lowering springs fell rite out. Using the original bolts and nuts, loosely install each bolt before snugging them down. Requires the use of caster camber plates. 3 Hour Install Hardware Included Integrated Engine Mounts Silver Powder Coated Finish Tig Welded in Billet fixtures 4130 Seamless Chrome Moly Tubing. Stock and other brand control arms are not compatible with this k-member. The fun times begin by sliding the new K-member into place. UPR tubular control arms are required to complete installation. A spring compressor tool is necessary if you have stock springs. In order to install the QA1 K-member, you’ll have to bolt up the motor mount brackets, which come with the provided hardware.
Just basic hand tools and a little elbow grease up to now.
It’s what your engine is bolted to, as well as your front suspension and steering rack. The main benefit of the 3/16-inch K-Member Spacers is to lower the K-Member so you can install a larger intake or add a power adder. Im sure it helped alot that my motor was already out. The K-member on the Fox Body chassis is basically the piece that ties everything in the front together. The install has been pretty straight forward up to this point. I did a short write up on my site () when I did my install: The UPT is a good piece for the $ and the weight savings is phenominal. If I were to road course my car, I would probably save my $ and get the MM K, they offer huge strenth and positove suspension geometry but little weight savings. The MM is hands down probably the best quality K member on the market. The UPR and MM are kind of hard to compare.
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